Best bike travel cases | Cyclingnews – Tailored Adventure Tours

The best bike bags, bike boxes and travel cases for bikes are incredibly well-designed these days.

Many cyclists travel abroad with their bikes for holidays or to compete. This means flying with your bike, which can be a daunting proposition. Most of us have heard horror stories of riders opening their bike bag to find a damaged bike inside after a flight. Choosing the right bike bag, rigid travel case or box will ensure your bike is protected and make your journey easier, meaning you can relax and enjoy your trip.

Another thing you might want to consider while travelling with your bike is an insurance option. Even with one of the best bike bags things do occasionally happen, so if the unthinkable happens and your bike doesn’t arrive in one piece, you’ll want to have insurance in place to help ease the blow. We have a list of the best bike insurance options, some of which cover your bike even when travelling.

We have flown with many of the bike bags in this guide so that we can properly review packing procedures and durability on a flight. Our favourite bike bag is the Evoc Road Bike Bag Pro due to its internal structure and easy packing procedure, but there are plenty of other options worth considering. Keep reading to see our pick of the best bike travel cases plus advice lower down the page on how to choose the best bike travel case for your needs.

Last updated on 11th July 2025

Added links to new reviews and Buy If/Don’t Buy If advice.

Table of Contents

Best for road bikes

Specifications

External dimensions: 142 x 53 x 92cm

Empty Weight: 11kg / 25lbs

Capacity: 310 Litres

Reasons to buy

Internal structure with protective plastics where necessary

Sturdy handles

Easy packing procedure

Packs down for storage

Reasons to avoid

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Expensive compared to other premium options

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Fixed-direction rear wheels mean manoeuvrability is reduced

Best for minimal disassembly

Specifications

External dimensions: 109 x 103 x 50 cm

Empty Weight: 9kg / 19lbs

Capacity: 561 Litres

Reasons to buy

Minimal bike disassembly

Instructions are printed on the bag

Incredibly smooth wheels

Lightweight

Packs down for storage when not in use

Reasons to avoid

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Metal derailleur cage isn’t useable with a thru axle

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Large overall size, so difficult to fit in cars or on trains

The bike straps into the bag securely, and the 360-degree wheels allow for easy one-handed dragging of the combined 9kg bag and bike weight. Although the four wheels limit the risk of toppling, all the wheels are casters so it tends to drift a little on uneven surfaces. We’ve also seen baggage handlers stack Scicon bags upside down on baggage carts on multiple occasions so they won’t roll away, so consider some additional padding for your handlebars and shifters.

Best for integrated handlebars

Specifications

External dimensions: L 133cm x H 94cm x W50cm

Empty Weight: 13kg / 28lb (including 2 x foam padding layers)

Capacity: n/a

Reasons to buy

Quality, strong design

No need for front end disassembly

7 year warranty and good spares availability

Reasons to avoid

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The larger size may cause the occasional issue

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Velcro straps may rub the bike’s paint

All that is required to pack a bike is to remove your wheels and pedals and you’re good to go, making this box a great option for time trial or triathlon bikes, road bikes with more complex integrated handlebars or cable routing or for people who just don’t want the extra hassle. Everything is held in place with some of the grippiest Velcro I have ever encountered, with the wheels stored away in their own dedicated spot. Unlike some bags where there is some trepidation about leaving things like derailleurs on the bike, I was confident leaving my rear mech and hanger fitted to the bike.

More important than the orientation of the bike though, is the well-thought-out protection. There are a number of protective elements and each one has a label on it. As I packed my bike it was easy to find which piece goes where and every part of the bike is both protected and securely held to avoid movement in transit. You will need to remove the bar and stem, saddle and seatpost, rear derailleur, and wheels but there’s a place for everything.

7. Thule Roundtrip bike travel hard case

Features an integrated repair stand

Specifications

External dimensions: 124 x 33 x 85 cm

Empty Weight: 12.5kg / 27.5lbs

Volume: 347.82 Litres

Reasons to buy

Includes a work stand for ease of re-assembly

Packs down small when not in use

Rigid but light side panels

Specific protection for the brake rotors

Reasons to avoid

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Case is heavy leaving less weight for the bike without incurring overweight fees

There are some bike travel cases that require a lot of disassembly and others that don’t. The Thule Roundtrip Bike Travel Case falls into the category that requires taking things apart but they’ve been smart to embrace the concept. Parts of the bag that add support and protection come out and assemble into a work stand. There’s even a clever triangle that you rotate to match your desired front axle standard.

While many airlines are abandoning the extra fees for checking bikes, some still haven’t taken note, and that’s where the OruCase B2 comes in handy. Travelling with the OruCase B2, when asked by desk agents what’s in the bag we’ve told them everything from massage tables and trade show gear, to ‘it’s just a really weird duffel bag’ — just make sure you’re not wearing a bike t-shirt, trust us.

How much does empty weight matter?

With a plastic base, wheels, internal skeleton, and robust materials, bike travel cases are heavy before you put anything inside, and some are pudgier than others.

Most airlines will give you 23kg / 50lbs before they hit you with an exorbitant overweight baggage fee, some budget airlines even less. If your bag weighs 12kg empty, when you pack a 6.8kg lightweight road bike, shoes and a track pump you’ll be nudging up against that limit.

What size do I need?

Are you just looking to travel with just your road bikes, or will you be taking trips with your mountain bike too? Are you riding an aero road bike with integrated handlebars or TT bars? Are you riding an XL frame?

These are all things to take into account when shopping for a bike bag because some of the more compact options are simply too small for certain bikes and frame sizes.

Do I need to disassemble my bike?

No bike bag will take your bike fully assembled, but some require considerably more disassembly and mechanical acumen than others. At the very least, you’ll have to pop your wheels off, but some bags also require you to remove your seat post, handlebars, and even the fork.

That’s going to cut into riding or relaxing time once you get to your destination and require you to carry more tools to rebuild your bike. A torque wrench is essential if you’re going to have to reassemble delicate components.

Do I need to worry about wheels and handles?

For something designed to help you move around with a bike in tow, bike travel cases and bike bags can be, unsurprisingly, awkward and cumbersome to move around with.

If you want to avoid a back injury, a set of wheels should be a minimum requirement, especially if you’re walking much after you land – some bike bags even use easily replaceable roller blade wheels, as they’re prone to damage when being loaded and unloaded.

In addition, you’ll want plenty of handles to help you hoist your bag onto a conveyor belt or into the back of a car.

Do I need to remove my derailleurs and rotors?

Take them off. Just about every bike bag out there comes with some sort of protection for your rear derailleur and brake rotors, but airlines have a knack for rendering them ineffective.

Learn from our mistakes and just take them off. The last thing you want is to start your holiday with a bent rotor or a broken derailleur hanger. If you are removing disc-brake rotors, don’t forget to put a brake block in the calliper to prevent the pads from sticking together or the pistons from getting stuck – in a pinch, a folded-over business card works, too.

What’s the fastest way to get my bike back together?

Saddle height and bar roll aren’t something you often think about until either one is a little bit off, and the last thing you want to do on your riding vacation is to pull over constantly and faff with minor adjustments. A couple of dots and lines with a paint pen will allow you to replicate your preferred position on the bike first try, every time.

Should I add extra padding?

Yes, we have just spent the last few hundred words saying how great the best bike travel cases, bags and boxes are, but there’s nothing wrong with a bit of added peace of mind.

Some bags come with foam tubing, however pipe insulation is perfect for an extra layer of protection. You can also pop into your local bike shop, and if you ask nicely, they’re likely to have plenty of spare packaging from a newly unboxed bike.

If you have a few spare kilos in your bike bag once it’s packed, throw your shoes, riding clothes, bars and gels and whatever else will fit without tipping your bag over the limit. If you’ve paid for 23kg / 50lbs, you may as well use it, although be aware that some airlines stipulate that a bike bag should contain nothing but your bike.

Do I need to deflate my tyres?

When you’re packing your bike, take a second to let the air out of your tyres. Airlines don’t allow anything pressurised into the cargo hold because it violates civil aviation safety regulations.

Before the engineering types slide into the comments, yes we know that the cargo hold is pressurised to ~10,000ft, which will only add ~3-4psi to your tyres, and it’s extremely unlikely a tyre will burst in transit.

The reason you need to take this step, is because if you do send your bike through with the tyres inflated, there is the distinct possibility that an airline employee will pull your bag aside and attempt to deflate them. At the very least, it’ll mean someone heavy-handedly rummaging through your neatly packed case, but we’ve heard horror stories of bags and tyres being cut.

Avoid the drama and just let the air out. If you’re running tubeless, drop them to a reasonable PSI that won’t result in a sealant shower.

Our top tips for packing your bike

If you need to remove your handlebars, put the faceplate back on your stem so you don’t lose the four bolts.

If you need to remove your stem, refit the top cap, then a zip tie around the steerer will keep your fork, headset and spacers from rattling loose. Be careful not to damage the steerer when cutting the zip tie off.

If you have Di2, unplug the battery. At the very least, it’ll save some battery life, but it may also prevent your tightly packed derailleurs from shifting in transit and overworking the motor.

If you have an internal seatpost wedge clamp, remove and pack it safely. You don’t want to spend the first hour of your trip fishing it out of your frame.

Take a spare derailleur hanger with you. For the price, it’s worth having a spare anyway, not least when thousands of miles from home. Some airlines will let CO2 cartridges through, but others will stop the bike and remove them. If you’re going to risk it, make them easy to find so the baggage handler doesn’t have to empty your entire bag.

Is there anything else I should consider?

If you’re using zip ties to hold things in place, you’ll need cable cutters or scissors in your case for unpackaging at the other end. You’ll also need more ties for the return journey. Maybe pack a screwdriver that’ll allow you to undo the zip ties without cutting them. Not only does it save you zip ties, it saves the planet from a little bit of single-use plastic.

Take your tools. If you’re having to disassemble your bike to fit it in the box, you’ll need to reassemble it at the other end – make a note of the tools used and don’t forget to pack them. Especially your torque wrench. You don’t want a 90km/h descent of Alpe d’Huez with badly torqued carbon handlebars.

Bottles are a great hardshell for storing potentially damaging things – e.g. allen keys, or items that will pop if crushed – gels, suncream, toothpaste. Wrap them in a carrier bag, though, or you might have oddly flavoured water on your first ride. Shoes are equally useful for this.

If you’ve got space in the bike bag, wrap your cycling kit in plastic bags and fill the gaps. Not only does this leave room in your other bag, but it will also act as padding.

Don’t forget food. Your riding holiday is likely going to involve increased mileage, and speaking from experience, you can’t always trust the local tuna sandwich.