Letter from AlUla: In a land of stories, the real influencers rise

On my flydubai flight to AlUla, at the unearthly hour of 6:50am, I felt like my Instagram feed had come to life.

As it turns out, I’d arrived in this ancient desert kingdom in Saudi Arabia at the same time as 50 influencers gathering for the first-ever Instagram-AlUla Summit. This, I discovered later.

Maraya Concert Hall: The Italian architect, Florian Boje, who built this mirror building, said there was no way he could compete with the real landscape and so he built something that would pay homage to it. It’s a performance arts and events venue and also houses the Maraya Social, a Jason Atherton-restaurant. And of course, it’s a social media dream.

For now, I found myself caught between two realities: the filtered, curated world of social media and the raw, elemental beauty unfolding outside the plane window, as the plane landed. Around me were the avatars made real – young, beautiful, branded in head-to-toe sweats, taking photos of each other, talking about “must-dos” and “you have to try this.”

It hit me: these are the new travel agents. They don’t sell, they influence – although that’s changing too as social morphs from inspiration to conversions. They’re the new celebrities of travel. That is, until the next wave arrives – virtual influencers. But that’s a story for another day.

One of the many ancient tombs of Hegra.

In many ways, AlUla is an influencer’s dream: cinematic, compact, and diverse. It gives you grandeur and grit, history and hashtag appeal – all in one scrollable package.

But for me, the magic lies elsewhere.

A balloon that’s all AlUla: The conservation purpose is to bring back the critically-endangered Arabian leopard back from the brink, in five years.

Hot air balloons in the sky as part of AlUla Skies Festival.

The Arabian Oryx, probably wondering what I’m doing starting at it.

Banyan Tree in Ashar Desert: Luxurious respite from the heat of the day.

In just two days, I’ve wandered ancient tombs. Gone on a nature safari to spot AlUla’s Big Three – Nubian ibex, Arabian oryx, and Arabian gazelle. Floated above sandstone cliffs in a hot air balloon. Learned how Bedouins read the stars, and why the North Star never moves.

I’m writing this from my two-bedroom villa at Banyan Tree in the Ashar Valley, trying to stay cool in the midday heat. The villas blend so seamlessly into the desert you hardly see them until you’re at the door. The buggies glide silently. In cooler months, I’d walk or cycle but now, the sun demands respect.

It’s shoulder season, often the best time to travel – less crowded, better rates. You just adapt your rhythm to the land.

And right now, it’s AlUla Skies Festival. On the morning of my balloon ride, run by Hero Experiences from Dubai, a total of 24 balloons rose with the sun.

In my basket: a globe of stories. An Austrian-Canadian woman. A young Japanese family living in London. A couple from Florida. A Swiss family with two kids.

It reminded me: travel has a quiet, steady power to pull strangers together into one shared, unforgettable moment.

Our pilot was Lithuanian. A serial balloonist over 35 years. This was his 52nd country. “I stay a few weeks, then move on,” he said. I marvelled – travel gives birth to some of the world’s most fascinating jobs.

Getting set for star gazing in the Sharaan Nature Reserve.

Like Tim, our stargazing guide from the Philippines. His job? Talk to people under the stars. Share cosmic tales. Let them gaze through a giant telescope at Jupiter, Mars, Polaris (North Star), galaxies light years away.

And this, after guests dined in private gazebos among ancient rocks in the Shaaran Nature Reserve.

Then there’s Abdul Malik, my guide. He grew up near Hegra, Saudi Arabia’s first UNESCO World Heritage site, but only recently discovered its importance.

“In school, we learned math, science, Saudi history. But not the story of my land,” he told me. After studying business in Riyadh, he came home to join Hero Experiences.

“My grandfather and uncles were Bedouins. They didn’t tell stories. They just lived from day to day. Now I’m learning, and sharing.”

That’s what makes AlUla extraordinary: the locals are discovering their history at the same time as we are. Their enthusiasm is infectious. Their pride is palpable.

The guide who showed me around Hegra beamed, “I am so proud of my country. I want to tell everyone!”

She was once a teacher but gave it up to become a tour guide. “Teaching is boring,” she said, her eyes sparking through her hijab. “Here, I get to tell stories to interesting people from all over the world.”

She’s part of a storytelling collective called the Rawis, who have historically served the function of narrators, or reciters of poetry and literature in Arab culture.

And in my eyes, they are the real influencers. No filter, no script – just heart, heritage, and soul. Hard to replace with AI.